For me, taking portraits is such an interesting yet difficult task: I have a lot of respect for it.
As a photographer and – above all – a human being, I don’t want to make anyone feel bad about themselves, my aim is to underline their essence, their spirit and beauty in the best possible way.
But that’s the difficult part: Even if I am perfectly prepared for a shoot, there is still an element of unpredictability as to whether it will work out or not. There might be a bit of pressure on both sides as we want to achieve great, satisfying results – sometimes even in a short amount of time. You might get paid for the portraits, so it needs to be a “success”. Another thing that scares me is that people feel good when the photos turn out well and bad when they find themselves unattractive in them. But what’s beautiful to me may be aesthetically unpleasing to others – that's where the difficulty starts.
How do I look?
When judging beauty, people may adapt to a typical appearance established in their own culture decades ago or to fashionable beauty trends such as youthfulness, masculinity, femininity, slimness and smooth-looking skin.
Already painters used their opportunities in the past to make the model in the painted portrait look a little better, nowadays people love to use filters or have trained photographic facial expressions to appear more „beautiful“ – but at the same moment unnatural things like a fake smile or a filter can be detected quite easily. When someone looks too perfect, it doesn't feel real either. Just think about AI-generated images of the “most perfect” women and men; we can detect an artificial image in a few seconds because something feels off.
Most of the time also the inner critic creeps in, we might not have taken pictures for a while and we might detect wrinkles, grey hair or our body not being in the shape as it was. Sometimes we recognize it just when we look at this new picture of us, but there’s still the wish to look all perfect because this is the “new look” we are used to see because of all those flawless influencers and models on social media or in the newspaper. Researchers discovered that even when we know that pictures are manipulated it does not always prevent their influence on how we perceive beauty or body standards even though we logically know these idealised images are not real.
Photographer Serge van Neck states it:
“The honest shot is the more interesting shot, every time.”
During an internship, I had to take around 50 portraits of women and men of different ages. One thing I realised when I focused more on their appearance was that everyone had a little flaw that you don't even notice when you're talking to them.
Be sure that authentic portraits will always speak to our hearts and have a greater emotional impact.
The non-technical aspects of taking an authentic photograph
Taking photos of ourself has always played an important role in self-definition as well as in self-presentation and self-reflection.
When taking a picture of myself, I like to consider what someone in ten or twenty years' time would think of this photo. I'm sure we'd all be annoyed by duck faces or the photo poses that were popular back then. Another consideration is how I would like to present myself to an imaginary younger self or to a younger sister to show the best version of myself. However, that shouldn't stop you from taking revealing pictures if that's your thing.
To me, authentic-looking photos are filled with great charisma – this is when you create poetry. The aim is to capture genuine expressions to create radically personal and emotional photographs.
As long as we don't take documentary pictures without intervening in a scene, most areas of photography are staged or posed to some extent. Let's be honest: it might be an 'arranged meeting' – we choose time and place and decide what to wear. The photographer might give us some instructions, which could make it difficult to call the photos 'authentic'.
In this context, authenticity means evoking real emotions and avoiding polished poses, trained expressions or acting (pretending to be someone you are not). It's about being genuine and real and being true and honest without covering up any unwanted bits. It's about showing our personality, presence, energy and emotions. It also means letting go of perfectionism, but that doesn't mean the pictures can't be beautiful. In fact, the more raw a picture is, the more beautiful it appears to me.
7 tips to achieve authentic portraits
1) Make sure you have a great connection with the photographer
Everything in this world is made up of energy and it is believed that each of us operates on our own frequency. Sometimes you meet someone and you effortlessly 'click' – you have a mutual connection.
I like Austrian photographer Ingo Pertramer's approach, where he spends more time in getting to know the person over a cup of coffee than taking the picture. It's important to feel comfortable and welcome during the shoot; sometimes, showing your true and authentic self can feel vulnerable or intimate. If you don't click with the photographer, don't take pictures – the mistrust will be visible in the photos. There are micro-expressions that we cannot control, but you will be able to see them in the photos.
I don’t agree that it’s the photographer's fault when less attractive pictures are taken. Of course, the photographer's inexperience or inadequate equipment can be reasons why the pictures didn't turn out well, but never forget that you are a team: the photographer can only be as good as the model and vice versa. It's important to like and trust each other to get authentic shots.
2) Use a camera, not a phone
Phones tend to sharpen pictures and make colours more saturated. Using portrait mode can make the background look very unrealistic. I know phone cameras can take great pictures nowadays, but since we're going for a natural look, I'd recommend using a camera.
While the camera is important for great pictures, I would still recommend using less gear. Large SLR cameras and huge lenses can look more 'weapon-like' and might be intimidating, so a small body and lens would be much friendlier and more intimate for this kind of shoot. However, it is important to use the right lens, otherwise it could distort the subject too much.
3) Never underestimate the power of light
In my opinion, real, authentic shots don't need a studio setup. Rather than trusting artificial light, I would recommend using available light: go outdoors or place yourself near a window – the portrait will look much more natural this way.
The time of day and weather also have a huge impact. Here in Austria, the sun is strongest and harshest at noon, creating unflattering shadows and making wrinkles more visible. If you're not going for a strong portrait with this sharp look, it's better to take pictures in the morning or evening light.
The terms “authentic” and “beautiful” are not opposed concepts – you can highlight your natural beauty in the morning when you probably look your freshest and your body may look great as it hasn't been affected by heavy food yet.
4) What to wear for the photo shoot
For portraits, people tend to wear the most colourful and patterned clothes they can find to make themselves stand out. For authentic shots, however, the clothes shouldn't steal the show, unless you're a bright shining star who loves to wear these kind of outfits every day. The most important thing when it comes to clothing is that you feel comfortable and that the clothes represent you. So please avoid itchy materials and shirts, dresses or trousers that are too tight. I would also avoid neon colours and clothes with big logos; stick to solid, neutral colours and subtle patterns.
Another tip would be to not go to the hairdresser or wear fancy makeup on the day of the shoot – you can always spot on TV which women went to the hairdresser right before the interview. Simple hairstyles look more natural.
If you want to go the extra mile, you could also take a look at which colours might fit the scene. Earthy tones can look nice outdoors, for example, as can reds in a green environment. Take a look at a colour wheel or study colour theory to find out which colours go well together and why complementary colours can be a good choice. Most importantly, the colours should suit your skin tone. Try on a few outfits in front of a mirror to see what looks most flattering on you.
Not only the colour, but also the texture of the clothing has an impact on the picture, as it can create more depth. A junky woollen cardigan has great texture as does a floating or sparkling chiffon dress. If you're not sure, take a few test shots to see what looks best on you and in the picture.
5) What is the best time to take authentic photos
As James Bay sings 'no, you don't have to wear your best fake smile': if you're not happy, don't pretend you are. I know models are asked to look happy and sad within a few seconds difference, but why not show how you really feel at that moment. All emotions are valid. Authenticity is not a fixed state; it changes all the time. We can authentically feel at ease, annoyed, happy or sad. We want expressions that come from within and radiate outwards. Remember: even honest disgust is more appealing than a fake smile. ;-)
If you have enough time on holiday, it's a good time to start taking authentic pictures. You're more relaxed, looking forward to exploring the surroundings and generally more excited about the day, so you might feel freer and it feels easier to take portraits.
But you can actually take those pictures anywhere and everywhere; it's just important that you and the photographer have enough time and aren't stressed by a busy schedule or too many strangers around you.
6) Where to take authentic pictures
If you're not a model, it can be challenging to simply shoot in front of a plain white wall. Being authentic means leaving all those standard poses and trained photographic facial expressions behind. It's time for a series of surprisingly personal shots or everyday scenes. Try telling a story, using your surroundings, such as your home or city and props to add meaning to the scene.
For example, you could showcase your favourite hobby. If it's basketball, for instance, the shoot could take place in a backyard with the photographer taking pictures while you dribble or shoot hoops. There could also be pictures of you sitting and tying your shoelaces or simply holding the ball. It doesn't have to be a hobby; it could be something like getting up in the morning while still feeling sleepy, sitting on your bed with a cosy blanket. This way, you can document an event while the subject is busy doing a specific, well-known task. When we are busy doing something, we have less time to worry about how we look. Especially the moments in between create the most stunning portraits. Just make sure the scene is authentic. If you want to go skiing in a dress, you might get great results for an editorial series, but for authentic pictures it would be better to stick to 'normal' situations.
7) How to take authentic pictures
It's good to get a variety of shots: include details, full-body shots and close-ups. To get in a comfortable mood, I wouldn’t start with super close ups; start with some from a distance instead. Also, be aware that hundreds of pictures of models will be taken during one photo shoot, so don’t be disappointed if the best shots don’t come right away.
For authentic portraits, it's good to include a little movement, as we're always moving during the day. This will definitely feel more natural than standing still.
In the post-processing stage, please trust the photographer. I think it's acceptable to remove minor, non-permanent blemishes such as pimples, but it's definitely unnecessary to create high-end portraits with edited skin.
Embrace your authenticity
Taking a picture of someone can be a simple delight, but being photographed often feels complicated or confusing. We tend to react with a mixture of excitement and nervousness as it can sometimes feel as a camera could reveal our innermost thoughts and insecurities.
I hope these tips have helped you express yourself more fully during a shoot and create a realistic and compassionate self-image. It's important to understand that our flaws are part of what makes us unique and magnificent. They don't define our worth (negatively). We all have aspects of ourselves that we struggle with and it is so important to recognise that imperfections are a universal part of being human.
If a photoshoot doesn't turn out as expected, allow yourself to fail — maybe it was the wrong day, moment, situation or photographer — and try again another time, bearing these tips in mind.
Do you have other tips our would you like to share your results?
Feel free to contact me by emailing to hello@bergermargaret.com or writing a DM on Instagram @bergermargaret.
Learn more about authenticity or authentic portraits:
Book tip | Chris Orwig: People Pictures. 30 Exercises for creating authentic photographs
Book tip | Confidence - 8 steps to knowing your worth by Roxie Nafousie (this is a general book about confidence and authenticity)
Udemy course | The Authentic Portrait Photography Toolkit by Lucy Lambriex (also available on Skillshare)
These sources are not sponsored, just educational information I enjoyed studying.
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