I got off the bus at midnight at the Ratina bus stop. I had often imagined what it would be like to be back in Finland after such a long time. Although it was a pitch black night, I noticed that the city had changed. Massive buildings like the Nokia arena and the surrounding buildings gave the impression that the city had grown since we last met. Had I grown too, had I changed? At the latest when I turned the key and stepped into the hallway of the old building, I noticed the smell of freshly washed laundry - memories flashed in front of my eyes - I knew I was right, I was back home.

The loft was in the middle of Tampere. It was the end of September and a little adventure was still waiting for me: my heart was warm, the radiators cold. My fluffy autumn jacket, an additional electric heater, long city walks and cuddling up in two blankets at night became my friends that week.

Sometimes I wonder how life would have turned out if everything had gone right or wrong. My plans were different this year. I should have travelled to Lapland in August, but life got in the way. Standing there at Laukontori watching the beautiful sunset made me feel so grateful: I knew I was at the right place at the right time and that there was a reason to be there at that moment.

The city walks had a therapeutic effect. The colourful leaves formed a perfect symbiosis with the reddish-brown bricks of the city's buildings. It seemed as if the city had been built to match the season. I stopped at the Pyynikki Tower a few times to get a hot chocolate and a munkki for my forest walks. Step by step - reflect - recharge. Just a week with a desire to stay longer. Memories, photos, snippets of city sounds - little impressions to collect and remember. I am sure I have changed, but the love for this city won’t go away.

Tampere travel guide

Is it worth visiting Tampere?

If you love the Nordic countries, I would definitely say yes!
I really like the fact that city and nature are so close together and you can enjoy both without having to compromise. 

How to get to Tampere?

AirBaltic offers direct flights from Munich, Amsterdam, Copenhagen, Milan, Nice, Rhodes and Riga. You can also choose Finnair (coming from Austria: from Vienna or Ljubljana airport), AirBaltic from Vienna or Lufthansa (with a stopover in Munich) to get to Helsinki and then take the train or bus to Tampere.

I booked a Lufthansa flight from Graz to Frankfurt and then changed airlines to get to Tampere with AirBaltic. The Frankfurt airport was really crowded - I would recommend getting there in time: I luckily had more than 4 hours waiting time between my flights and was only travelling with hand luggage - otherwise it would not have been possible to catch the second flight.

The Tampere airport is rather small, but nice and comfortable - you can find and get everything you need.

The bus schedule is adapted to the flights. I arrived around midnight, the bus leaves right outside the airport. You can't pay with cash on the bus - if you have a travel card, you can use this one or use a mobile ticket or pay contactless. I used bus number 103 and it took me 20 minutes to reach the city centre. The bus zones from the airport to the city centre are CBA (or ABC). For a timetable, I can recommend downloading the app "Nysse mobili", which is also available in English. You can buy tickets, but also search for the best connections directly in the app.

What to do in Tampere in autumn?

On sunny days I recommend talking walks, e.g. in the city centre, in the Pyynikki or Pispala area. The Hatanpää arboretum is also worth a visit not only in summer but also in autumn: you can still find some sunflowers there, but also wonderfully coloured trees. The Tallipiha stables are also a great place to visit and to buy little gifts for your loved ones.

On rainy days, it's time for cultural activities or a shopping trip: I would recommend visiting the Moomin Museum, Vaprikki or the Sara Hildén Art Museum. During my stay, I visited the exhibition of Brad Pitt, Nick Cave and Thomas Houseago at the Sara Hildèn musem and really enjoyed it.

It's also a great experience to find some design treasures in the second-hand shops in Tampere: My favourite second-hand shops are Kirpputori Tarina, UFF and Radiokirppis.

Where to stay in Tampere?

Personally, I prefer Airbnb apartments because it makes you feel like a Tampere resident and you have a whole place for yourself. Especially if you are staying for a longer period of time, it's a good opportunity because the apartments are well equipped and most of them have a washing machine or even a sauna in the house. If you book well in advance, you can find more than a handful of nice options. The loft I chose was right in the city centre, so I could reach everything within a few minutes. If you're more into all-round service, I would recommend a hotel: Lillan Hotel & Kök, 1.5 km from the centre, looks like a lovely boutique hotel, but also the Lapland Hotels or Unity Tampere in the Pyynikki district (which also has a great working area) are worth checking out.

What is the most beautiful district in Tampere?

Tampere is divided into many districts and most of them have their own charm. If you like Scandinavian and Nordic wooden houses, you should definitely check out upper Pispala. If you want to go for a walk near the city centre, I recommend the Pyynikki area with its nature reserve and Pyynikki Tower, which is a nice destination not only for tourists but also for Tampere residents. There you can not only enjoy a wonderful view over Tampere, but also get a munkki – a kind of donut – and a hot chocolate or a coffee.
If you like red bricks, visit the Finlayson district in the city centre. Fans of amusement parks should visit Särkänniemi - there you can also find a restaurant in the Näsinneula tower, an aquarium and the Sara Hildén art museum.

How to get around Tampere?

It's pretty easy to get around Tampere - on foot, by bike (you can rent Tampere City Bikes, for example), by scooter, by bus or by tram. The only time I used a taxi was when I had to arrive early at the airport, e.g. on weekends. Taksi Tampere is my preferred choice here. You can also download the app (also in English) and book your trip directly from there.

Tampere in autumn

All pictures were taken in late September with my Leica Q2